Helmut Lang is the eponymous brand of the Austrian designer.
Lang himself has stopped his involvement in the brand since 2005 and in 2007 Helmut
Lang was re-launched with its new creative directors, Michael and Nicole
Colovos. The American-New Zealand designer couple has made Helmut Lang famous
with their urban, edgy and deconstructive designs.
Helmut Lang創始於奧地利設計師 – Helmut Lang。2005年後Helmut Lang設計師本人不再插手Helmut Lang品牌事宜，2007年時Helmut Lang在設計總監Micheal Colovos和Nicole Colovos 帶領下重新出發。這兩位美裔紐西蘭設計師夫妻黨讓Helmut Lang以前衛、具衝突感的都市穿著聞名時尚圈。
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| Michael and Nicole Colovos |
I personally love their asymmetric draping, distressed leather and dark colours.
These designs are well shown in Helmut Lang’s pre-Fall 2012 and Fall 2012
collections.
我個人非常喜歡他們不對稱的垂墜設計，仿舊的皮質以及深色為主的色系。這樣的設計在Helmut Lang 2012年早秋與秋冬系列顯露無遺。
Pre-Fall 2012
Fall 2012
In the 2013
resort collection, Helmut Lang retained their uneven cuttings and colour uses –
neutral, black and colour palettes. However, changes can been seen – the style
had gone more minimalist.
在2013年的休閒系列裡，Helmut Lang維持一貫的基本色調和不對稱剪裁。但不像先前的是，此季的設計透露着極簡主義的味道。
Resort 2013
The 2013
resort collection was like a pre-announcement of the dramatic new image of Helmut
Lang Spring 2003.
2013年的休閒系列就像是預告著Helmut Lang將有重大改變。
This is not
Helmut Lang!! The Spring 2013 collection was a big shock to many Helmut Lang
fans in terms of colours and patterns. If these runway shots weren’t titled as
Helmut Lang, there was no way on the earth I could tell they are Helmut Lang! Different
from previous neutral and black, the range now includes lots of bright colours
– vivid red, sea blue, saturated orange and banana yellow. Also, the colour
palette has been replaced by jacquard patterns and Piet Mondrian-like colour
blocks.
這不是Helmut Lang!!!對許多Helmut Lang的忠實愛好者來說，2013年的春裝是一個震撼彈。這一系列的設計在顏色與花紋上都與以往風格迥異。如果這一系列的秀場照不是在標著Helmut Lang的文章標題裡，我猜到天荒地老也不會猜到這會是Helmut Lang！ 不似先前的基本色調與黑色，這一季改充滿了鮮艷色系 – 大紅色、海藍色、鮮橘色和香蕉黃。以往的調色盤染色紋也被提花織紋與大色塊取代。
Spring 2013
I was
wondering the reason behind the changes - if Michael and Nicole Colovos have
changed their design ethos, if it was just a try of breakthrough or if they are
avoiding fashion show commanders criticising that they are bored with black,
uneven, draping and distressed designs again? God knows! No matter what the
real reason is, I deeply hope I will have my ‘old’ Helmut Lang back. I don’t
mind the minimalist design, but really can’t wear any bright colours and
flowery patterns. Maybe I have to rethink if Helmut Lang is really one of my
favourite brands!
我一直在想到底是什麼原因讓Micheal Colovos和Nicole Colovos 把Helmut Lang改頭換面。他們真的改變風格了嗎？他們想要試試突破？還是他們怕時尚評論家說被年復一年的深色不對襯稱與垂墜仿舊感設計無聊死了？天曉得！不管原因是什麼，我真真切切地希望Micheal Colovos和Nicole Colovos可以還我原本的Helmut Lang。我對極簡設計沒有任何偏見，但花紋亮色系我實在穿不上身。或許我該重新想想Helmut Lang到底是不是我最喜歡的品牌之一了…?
Brands I like 3/5 – Acne (Coming soon)
Brands I like 4/5 – The Kooples (Coming soon)
Brands I like 5/5 – All Saints (Coming soon)
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